Isotherm Cruise 200 Stainless Steel Refrigerator/Freezer CR200 7.0 cu. ft.
Isotherm Cruise 200 Stainless Steel Refrigerator/Freezer CR200 7.0 cu. ft.

Isotherm Cruise 200 Stainless Steel Refrigerator/Freezer CR200 7.0 cu. ft.

Regular price$2,475.00
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The Isotherm Cruise 200 is a full-size, two-door fridge-freezer for a built-in cabinet: 200 liters total, split into a 150-liter refrigerator and a 50-liter freezer, each behind its own stainless steel door. It is the largest under-counter unit in the Cruise line we install, and it suits van builds, boats, and RV galleys where a small single-door fridge is not enough food storage for the trip.

It runs on 12/24V DC from your battery bank and 115/230V AC on shore power, with both able to stay connected - AC takes priority when it is present. The fan-cooled Danfoss / Secop BD50F compressor, built-in battery protection, and a stainless door and flange are built for vehicle and marine use. Plan the cabinet around the dimensions and ventilation requirements below, and the full specifications, install notes, and fitment answers are on this page.

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From our shop to your build The Cruise 200 is from the fridge line we install most in our own builds - a full-size, two-door Isotherm with a real freezer section. If you have a fitment question, you are talking to people who mount Cruise fridges in vans and boats every week.
Technical details

Specifications

Isotherm Cruise 200 (CR200) - full specifications
ModelCruise 200 Stainless Steel (CR 200 Inox), built-in / flush mount
Total capacity200 L (7.0 cu. ft.)
Refrigerator capacity150 L (5.2 cu. ft.)
Freezer capacity50 L (1.8 cu. ft.)
ConfigurationTwo-door, side-by-side fridge / freezer - separate door for each section
Door swingLeft (freezer) / Right (refrigerator)
FinishStainless steel door and mounting flange
CompressorDanfoss / Secop BD50F, fan-cooled, fully hermetic
RefrigerantR134a
Voltage12 / 24V DC and 115 / 230V AC (60 / 50 Hz) - this is the AC/DC version
Current draw, compressor runningAbout 6.0 A at 12V DC (about half at 24V DC)
Average current draw2.3 - 4.0 A at 12V DC, depending on ambient temperature
Energy consumption799 Wh / 24h (manufacturer rating)
Fuse15 A for 12V DC / 7.5 A for 24V DC
Battery protectionCompressor cut-out at 9.6V, cut-in at 10.9V on a 12V system (21.3V / 22.7V on 24V)
Freezer temperature-12°C (manufacturer rating)
Unit dimensions880 mm H x 731 mm W x 630 mm D (34.6″ x 28.8″ x 24.8″)
Cut-out dimensions34.7″ H x 28.9″ W (see dimensions note on depth)
Weight48 kg (about 106 lb), net
Warranty2 years on all components, 5 year limited warranty on the compressor
Measure twice

Dimensions & fitment notes

Unit dimensions: 880 mm H × 731 mm W × 630 mm D (34.6″ × 28.8″ × 24.8″). Cut-out: 34.7″ H × 28.9″ W. The published cut-out depth figures for this model conflict between sources, so plan the cabinet around the unit's full 24.8″ depth and confirm against the installation dimension drawing (Fig. 10) in the manual before you cut. Ventilation: the compressor and condenser need a free area of 23-28 sq. in. below and behind the unit so cold air can enter at the bottom, pass behind the fridge, and leave at the top. Weight: 48 kg net - plan the cabinet structure and the lift-in accordingly. Keep the mounting position dry, protected from splashing water, and away from heat sources and direct sun.

Dimensions are per the manufacturer's published specs and are provided as a fitment guide. Master Overland isn't responsible for fitment issues caused by manufacturing variances — when in doubt, measure your opening and email us before ordering.

From our install bay

Installation notes

We install Cruise fridges in our own builds. The short version:

  • Test fit first: slide the unit into the cabinet opening unfastened, confirm both doors swing clear (freezer left, refrigerator right), and confirm the mounting flange seats flush before you fasten anything.
  • Ventilation is the install: leave a free area of 23-28 sq. in. below and behind the unit. Cold air must enter at the bottom, pass up behind the fridge, and exit at the top - a sealed cabinet is the most common cause of a Cruise fridge that runs constantly and still struggles.
  • Mounting: the unit stands on its feet and is fastened in place through its stainless mounting flange. Keep it upright and level in the cabinet; the compressor is mounted at the rear of the unit.
  • DC wiring: connect the electronic unit directly to the battery poles - never connect a battery charger directly to the refrigerator. Put the fuse in the positive cable as close to the battery as possible: 15A on 12V, 7.5A on 24V. Avoid extra junctions, which cause voltage drop.
  • Wire gauge (manufacturer chart): AWG 12 up to 8 ft on 12V (16 ft on 24V); AWG 10 up to 15 ft on 12V (30 ft on 24V); AWG 8 up to 26 ft on 12V (52 ft on 24V).
  • AC/DC use: this version can have AC and DC connected at the same time - AC is the preferred source when present, and there is about a one-minute delay before the compressor continues on DC after AC is disconnected.
  • First start: start with the thermostat in a mid position rather than the coldest setting. The freezer section cools quickly; the refrigerator section takes several hours to reach temperature.
Fitment

Fitment & compatibility FAQ

What size cabinet opening does the Cruise 200 need?
The cut-out is 34.7 in high by 28.9 in wide, and the unit itself measures 34.6 in H x 28.8 in W x 24.8 in D (880 x 731 x 630 mm). Published cut-out depth figures for this model conflict, so build the cabinet around the full unit depth and confirm against the installation dimension drawing in the manual before cutting.
Is this one compartment or a separate fridge and freezer?
Two separate sections behind two doors, side by side: a 150 L (5.2 cu. ft.) refrigerator and a 50 L (1.8 cu. ft.) freezer, 200 L (7.0 cu. ft.) total. The freezer door swings left and the refrigerator door swings right.
What power does it run on?
This is the AC/DC version: 12/24V DC and 115/230V AC. With the compressor running it draws about 6.0 A at 12V (about half at 24V), and it averages 2.3 to 4.0 A at 12V depending on ambient temperature. Fuse it at 15A on 12V or 7.5A on 24V.
How much ventilation does it need?
A free area of 23 to 28 sq. in. below and behind the unit, arranged so cold air enters at the bottom, passes behind the fridge, and warm air leaves at the top. Do not mount it tight against a heat source or in direct sun, and keep the mounting position dry and protected from splashing water.
Will it drain my battery bank?
The manufacturer rates energy consumption at 799 Wh per 24 hours. Built-in battery protection switches the compressor off at 9.6V and back in at 10.9V on a 12V system (21.3V / 22.7V on 24V), so the fridge will not run a bank completely flat.
Does it need a water line or a drain hookup?
No water line. Condensation from the refrigerator compartment drains to a container at the rear of the cabinet, where it evaporates automatically - there is no drain hose to plumb.
How heavy is it, and can one person install it?
48 kg (about 106 lb) net, before food. Plan on two people for the lift into the cabinet and a cabinet structure built for the weight.
Real answers

Questions from customers

Questions buyers have actually asked us, answered by our team. Have one we haven't covered? Email us — we answer.

Can I leave both AC and DC connected at the same time?
Yes - that is how this version is designed to be used. AC is the preferred source when it is present; if AC power is disconnected, there is about a one-minute delay before the compressor continues running on DC. Answered by the Master Overland team
How much power will it use in a day?
The manufacturer rating is 799 Wh per 24 hours. In current terms it averages 2.3 to 4.0 A at 12V while cycling, depending on ambient temperature (the rating basis is a 70 to 95 degree F range), and draws about 6.0 A at 12V while the compressor is running. Answered by the Master Overland team
The compressor runs a long time but the fridge is not getting cold enough. Where do I start?
Check ventilation at the rear of the unit first - the manufacturer fault chart lists bad ventilation and a dust-blocked condenser ahead of most other causes. Clean the condenser with a soft brush (no sharp tools), at least once a year, and confirm the 23 to 28 sq. in. free area below and behind the unit is not blocked. Answered by the Master Overland team
How cold does the freezer get?
The manufacturer rating for the freezer section is -12 degrees C. Start with the thermostat in a mid position - setting it to the coldest position at first start is not recommended - and give the refrigerator section several hours to reach temperature after switch-on. Answered by the Master Overland team
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J
Joshua Eggleston
Refrigeration keeps turning off

Refrigeration keeps turning off. While the power is still functioning at 24v nominal. The internal light in the fridge side still works. A simple power cycle with no voltage change restores refrigeration. I’m seeking solutions and will update review.

W
Wendy Lochner

Great!